Day 4 - Forvono di Taro - Aulla

Quite a day. First I got locked out of the Parish Church for more than half
hour as the keys to the gate does not work. Then on the way across the
Apennines
got on the wrong turn and had to do an extra 5 to 7 km on SP15 instead to
Berceto. I think that road is harder as I see many cyclist on lycra racing
up and down the road. Now I know how it feels to ride on the lowest and
second lowest gear for a long time. The weather is cold and cloudy and it
even drizzle a bit. My legs are like rubber after the climb. Now I know how
it feels like to cycle in the mountains. Very different from driving. Just
before Passo della CISA I stopped at the ostello for lunch. This is a very
nice private ostella and the couple is so nice. Only ordered a coffee but
they gave me a postcard and a via Francigena sticker.

Immediately after Passo della CISA the road is downhill all the way to
Pontremoli for like 22 km. I think I did that in half an hour which means
that I must be averaging over 40 km/h. The feeling is bloody exhilarating.
I was praying all the time that my brakes don't fail me. I was hoping to
make it to Sarzana but just before Aulla I got a flat on the rear tire. Got
to a gas station but it was closed on Sunday. Took me an hour to figure out
where is the leak and patch it. Then test to make sure it is the only leak.
In the end stopped at Aulla. It was good choice as the ostello is nice,
water is hot and pilgrims. An American and an Italian walker plus a couple
of French bikers. The ostello also host a museum of pellegrinos and is also
the crypt of Saint Caprasio.

They have internet here but just on a PC (no wifi). Takes 10 minutes to
boot up Windows Vista and bloody slow. At least I've managed to learn how
to get the pictures off the new phone onto the PC.

Tomorrow I will just be happy if the tire is still okay and I can make it
to Lucca.