Camino Levante - Day 28 Leaving Toro

It's nice to be able to have coffee right downstairs of the pension with a bar. Having a glass of the local dark Toro wine the night before was also great. Guess the mother of the establishment was already there at the bar when I came down. She even ask which size coffee and of course the grande! Feels a bit bad as I know they open early because of me. Then again they know about pilgrims as the day before when I asked for a room he shouted upstairs to his mom and said 'Mom, a pilgrim!' instead of saying a guest.

Slow start down the city at 7:30. Passed the Dominican church where I could stayed. Looks very imposing, gated with a big lawn. Glad about my choice of lodging. More corn fields along the Duero river.

A felled sign that says Zamora is still 35 km. Can't be right since it is already 3 km out of 34 km to Zamora. Maybe a pilgrim has done this in anger? Pure speculation of course.

Wasn't very long before the trail ends and it's onto the road for the last 20 km! Crap! Not a nice way with the cars quite close. Then just before the first stop 18 km at Villalazán witness a traffic stopping goats on the road on the way to pasture. Guy as usual ask me where I started walking. One of the dogs has a bandana. I guess even for sheep dog (goat dog in this case) there is pecking order.

Some beef at the pit stop. There is albergue here but pretty much nothing else other than this bar and restaurant.

Another 8.5 km to the last stop at Villaralbo passing an archaeological dig. Had a rest and food in front of the ayuntamiento in Villaralbo before making the final push to Zamora.

After this it is just 6 km to Zamora. The city is big and long looking from the east. The old city is from the south so it is back to a nice trail towards the south of Zamora.

Finally back to the Duero river and before the old city entrance an old man in a beret fishing besides the river.

Camino Levante - Day 27 Toro

Lovely town. It's even got a Roman millario (milestone). Stop for a Cafe Cortardo (Macchiato) and decide where to stay. Dominican church? Pass. A couple of hostal but looks quite far after checking with Google. Hmmm. A pension right across from my coffee place. Perfect! That's a great location. Pension are the first rind when it comes to lodging here in Spain. Usually family run, simple rooms and mostly shared toilets. Hostals are more like motels. No problem for me considering the location. Even got a room with the balcony. The pension also has a bar below. Tomorrow coffee at 7 am? No problem they say. Cool. It's another under 34 km to Zamora so this is good news if I am to start early.

Camino Levante - Day 27 To Toro

No more towns until Toro. Path is laden with corn fields after corn fields irrigated by the waterways from the Duero river that will stretch all the way to Zamora.

A bit boring as the river is just far enough not to be seen and the pebble path is not particularly nice to walk on.

Found a slight detour midway to Toro to a nice spot on the river Duero. Had lunch there right under the tree in front of the river lock. Tuna with mayo on toasted bread, chips and a can of ice tea (not shown). Heard splashes in the water. Fishes! Wish I had my fishing rod. Then again how to carry it if I do catch something? Beautiful wildlife sanctuary with eagles, birds and ducks further away. Even an observation post for the nature lover.

6 more km later spotted Toro up on the hill. A fly fisherman below while crossing the river to go up to the city. The path is supposed to be a long wide right turn to go up the city. Seeing an option on the map to go up direct decided to do the shorter route up. Bad idea. The cobblestone path is really steep and I was panting when I finally got up to the church.

Camino Levante - Day 27 Leaving Castronuño

Woke up late nice and toasty (thanks to the portable heater) at 8 am. My phone says the temperature is 5 Celsius. Didn't start walking until 9 am. Only have 22 km today and can't go any further even if I wanted as the following place to stay is another 18 km and too close to Zamora.

The albergue's sign say 470 km to Santiago de Compostela. Not going that far this time. Just have 2 more days to the end of Camino Levante in Zamora.

Not an easy 5.6 km to Villafranca del Duero. While the  cars can go down besides the river the walking path is more away from it and looking like camel humps hills (actually 3-4 of these humps). Not a good start in the morning.

Another coffee when I got there. The town's church looks very modern. Then I realized I saw the dam from the top of Castronuño the day before and over here in Villafranca del Duero is after the dam so this town must be relatively new.

Two old folks ask me if I am a pilgrim. I said yes and as usual one of them ask me to kiss the statue of St. James in Santiago de Compostela when I get there. Little did they know that I won't be walking all the way there this time.

Camino Levante - Day 26 Castronuño

Lucky gamble. OMG, OMG what a fantastic view! I just have to ignore the arrows and climb to the top of the town. There are many private bodega (wine cellar) that looks like Hobbit's houses on top of the hill too. Spend 20 minutes enjoying this view before having to come down towards the ayuntamiento (town hall) for info on lodging. Had a coffee at the bar next to the town hall, hoping it will open at 5 pm. When it did not open at 5:15 pm I decided to try the options in the guide.

From the guide the options for this place is either the Guardia Civil (civil guards) 3 km from town (free, but the guide never say which direction). The other 3 options are Casa Rural (Spanish style B&B). The last (not really an option) is the mention that the town is planning to open a municipal albergue.

Looks like Casa Rural unfortunately (like most B&B they tend to cost more, around double a hostal rate). I Whatsapp the numbers to Michael so he can help me call and speak to them. No answers for all 3 Casa Rural and later when I passed by 2 of them found them to be closed (maybe off season). Many times the people don't stay in their Casa Rural.

Running out of options and not able to go late in the day another miracle happened. While smoking outside the bar I ask two men also smoking outside about the Casa Rural. When one of them spoke I caught nothing other than the word albergue and after he messaged someone on his mobile he ask me to wait where I was for 5 minutes (which turns out to be 30 minutes, quite normal here). Lo and behold the guy who came is the hospitalero running the albergue. He told me that the albergue had been opened for a year. The guide book needs to be updated.

I followed him out of the center to the edge of the town 700 meters away to the albergue. He gave me the key, paid 5 euros, then proceed to tell me the usual (lock the door the next day and drop the key into the mailbox. For the stamp for my credential he said to do it at the other bar in town (Bar Sevilla). Strange.

As usual I was all alone in the albergue. The good thing of having the place all to yourself is the ability to uae the only heater to dry your washing and also to keep warm at night (the temperature is dropping and it looks like a cold night). The hot shower after my 25.5+8.5 km walk is like heaven.

The day is still not done. After the shower I went back to town, ask for the alimentacion (no supermarket), get some supplies, then to Bar Sevilla to get the credential stamped, then back up the north edge to enjoy the view against the evening Sun, then back down to the first bar at 8 pm to eat dinner (no restaurant). Not much option except hamburger which was actually quite good with egg, bacon, lettuce and caramelized onions. Before I left the bar I ask them when are they open in the morning. 8 am? Yes, I will be there.

Now happy and back at the albergue. Checked the log book and the last entry was a couple from Darmstadt Germany three days ago. This is really a quiet route.

Talk about a full day....

Camino Levante - Day 26 To Castronuño

The clouds not only stayed around but it actually rain (heavy drizzle) for 15 mins. Lucky. The kind of trail doesn't walk well when it is really wet. Plus I have the chance to use one of the items I carry. An umbrella. Good thing there is no wind while it was raining.

The terrain got slightly more undulating. Finally caught sight of Castronuño up on the hill.

Camino Levante - Day 26 To Siete Iglecias de Trabancos

Mostly a dry rolling hill terrain on the second half. A big tree before the town for food and rest. Have to cross the bridge over the highway to get to the town. Another one of those town that is close to a highway hotel/hostal/restaurant. The town is actually on a downhill slope. Just don't like the place. The place just don't feel right. No facilites except a bar and probably food will be at the highway restaurant which is uphill from the town. Plus, what siete iglecias (seven churches). What a lie. It barely have one.

For some reason even though it is already 2 pm I was contemplating on moving further. 8.5 km to the next place, Castronuño. From the map it looks promising right under a big river. Since it was getting cloudy and the wind is so cool decided to move on. Should be there around 4-4:30 pm. Not even a coffee beeak here. Taking a risk but it just don't feel right for me here.

Camino Levante - Day 26 To Nava del Rey

First stop Nava del Rey around mid point for today's relatively short (subjective) 25.5 km. Started late just after 8 am after my own breakfast and coffee at the bar (yes!).

A last look at Medina del Campo and basically follow the trail next to the train track for a while. Some parts are close to bushes and after a while the lower part of the pants got slightly wet. Those who had walked the Camino would know.

More horses, vineyard (no grapes again) and sad sunflowers and Nava del Rey was in sight. Another coffee break around 11 am enjoying the church. A very interesting design. The tower is the same style as the churches in Galacia.

Wind was really cold and I did not have to take out my light parka until almost 2 pm.