Lucky gamble. OMG, OMG what a fantastic view! I just have to ignore the arrows and climb to the top of the town. There are many private bodega (wine cellar) that looks like Hobbit's houses on top of the hill too. Spend 20 minutes enjoying this view before having to come down towards the ayuntamiento (town hall) for info on lodging. Had a coffee at the bar next to the town hall, hoping it will open at 5 pm. When it did not open at 5:15 pm I decided to try the options in the guide.
From the guide the options for this place is either the Guardia Civil (civil guards) 3 km from town (free, but the guide never say which direction). The other 3 options are Casa Rural (Spanish style B&B). The last (not really an option) is the mention that the town is planning to open a municipal albergue.
Looks like Casa Rural unfortunately (like most B&B they tend to cost more, around double a hostal rate). I Whatsapp the numbers to Michael so he can help me call and speak to them. No answers for all 3 Casa Rural and later when I passed by 2 of them found them to be closed (maybe off season). Many times the people don't stay in their Casa Rural.
Running out of options and not able to go late in the day another miracle happened. While smoking outside the bar I ask two men also smoking outside about the Casa Rural. When one of them spoke I caught nothing other than the word albergue and after he messaged someone on his mobile he ask me to wait where I was for 5 minutes (which turns out to be 30 minutes, quite normal here). Lo and behold the guy who came is the hospitalero running the albergue. He told me that the albergue had been opened for a year. The guide book needs to be updated.
I followed him out of the center to the edge of the town 700 meters away to the albergue. He gave me the key, paid 5 euros, then proceed to tell me the usual (lock the door the next day and drop the key into the mailbox. For the stamp for my credential he said to do it at the other bar in town (Bar Sevilla). Strange.
As usual I was all alone in the albergue. The good thing of having the place all to yourself is the ability to uae the only heater to dry your washing and also to keep warm at night (the temperature is dropping and it looks like a cold night). The hot shower after my 25.5+8.5 km walk is like heaven.
The day is still not done. After the shower I went back to town, ask for the alimentacion (no supermarket), get some supplies, then to Bar Sevilla to get the credential stamped, then back up the north edge to enjoy the view against the evening Sun, then back down to the first bar at 8 pm to eat dinner (no restaurant). Not much option except hamburger which was actually quite good with egg, bacon, lettuce and caramelized onions. Before I left the bar I ask them when are they open in the morning. 8 am? Yes, I will be there.
Now happy and back at the albergue. Checked the log book and the last entry was a couple from Darmstadt Germany three days ago. This is really a quiet route.
Talk about a full day....
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