Camino Levante - Day 23 Leaving Ávila

OAfter a hearty breakfast including fried ham and eggs, and more food to last up to 3 meals I set off late around 8 am. Today's walk short (22.4 km in the guide or 24 km on the wall chart in the albergue). It might be the latter as some of the waymarkings on the route differs here and there from the guide, probably to avoid as much as possible from any roads.

After locking the huge main gate of the albergue and leaving Ávila via the Roman structure and skirting along the river I have to immediately backtrack. Backtracking is every walker's nightmare even if it is a few hundred meters. Apparently an old man walking his dog along the river told me the way is block or something. No wonder there were 2 directions in the markings earlier on.

Love walking in the morning. Nice cool weather, birds chirping (especially the bigger magpies that always seems to seen in twos).

The terrain now is a now much better rolling hills and late in the morning begins the gradual descent that will last for the next 2 days.

The towns past today are small and no bars in sight.

There is a new marker next to the usual yellow arrow or the old GR239 route (which is what this Camino is based on) which is the Alba sign. Later I learned it is a walking trail of Santa Teresa who was born in Ávila and died in Alba around 100 plus km I was told. It share the same route as the Camino (at least for today).

Pretty soon late in the morning the town of Gotarrendura can be seen right below. On the way there spotted a herd of goats with a shepherd on a 4-wheel drive and dogs herding the flock. That's a lazy way to do it I think.

Anyway an easy day and entered Gotarrendura around 1:15 pm. Less Sun and more rest needed from walking in the mountains the past few days.

Camino Levante - Day 23 Gotarrendura

Outside the albergue lots of cats resting in the shade. Called the number and in my horrible Spanish managed to get them to come open the door. Found out this village has no bar, no restaurant, nothing! A no bar town in Spain. I guess it is still quite close to Ávila for the town folks to have these services. I was given a name and number to call who can drive me to another town a few km away if I need it. Luckily I already prepared and carried enough food since today is Sunday.

Later Alberto from Madrid came in. He is walking Teresanos way (Ávila to Alba). It was him who told me about the short camino of Santa Teresa. There is statue of Santa Teresa dressed like a pilgrim walking inside the albergue.

Nothing much to do but rest and do some washing. This albergue even have a washing machine. Not much to wash (2 tops, 1 pants, hat, buff, towel, 2 socks and underwear). Still beats hand washing. No washing powder around. As I don't have any liquid soap (only a small bar of soap from the hostal as I left my shower gel behind a few days ago) had to resort to using the washing detergent. Tomorrow I will be walking smelly like freshly washed kitchen utensils.

Only highlight is the small church. That's also the exit out of town.

Camino Levante - Day 22 Night in Ávila

Full moon above the city walls. Best I can with the crappy phone camera.

Back in the albergue. Still alone. I guess the frogs (the two French couples) are doing a shorter stage. Guess I will be alone from now unless something unexpected turns up.

Despite going through beautiful places, when one is walking the Camino it seems that the urge to walk is much greater than staying around for an extra day. Besides, with the lodgings here all full and the albergue only allowing a night's stay, I can't even if I want to.

Anyway, one more week of walking and I should be in Zamora and end of my Camino Levante.

Camino Levante - Day 22 Albergue and evening in Ávila

Nicely renovated albergue. Has a kitchen so I can go quickly to the supermarket to buy stuff tomorrow (Sunday). Going have fried eggs, tomato and ham sandwich for breakfast and also packed for lunch. The albergue is donativo (donation) so I put some euros into the box, especially when they have really hot showers. Before dinner went back and spotted a sponsored run around the city. 2 seconds after the photo was taken it rain. Just 10 minutes. Hope to tomorrow's weather will be fine. Got really cloudy in the afternoon.

Dinner right outside the wall. Yes, kebab! Got dessert waiting for me back in the albergue.

Should be an easy mid twenties km tomorrow with more descent I hope.

Camino Levante - Day 22 Ávila

A look back where I came from this morning from the city wall.

My second time here, first time as a tourist. It's crowded inside the historic city walls. Didn't recall it to be so upmarket (fancy bars, restaurant and at least 3 four stars hotel just the cathedral), but then again that was in 2002.

Town square says it is the 500 years anniversary of Santa Teresa of Ávila (not sure that is based on her birth, death or canonization). They even charge to go in the convent of Santa Teresa. That's too much, not for me. So many tourists here, maybe the celebration could be this Sunday. All hotels and hostals are fully booked (yes, I checked). No choice but to hunt down the albergue. Whatsapp Michael so he can call on my behalf as the gates were locked. Even have time to walked (with backpack) cross the river to see the Roman monument (Ávila was originally a Roman settlement).

Have always like Ávila. Just that the inner city now has become too touristy for me, just like Toledo.

Camino Levante - Day 22 To Ávila

Pit stop about 8 km from Ávilaat Tornadizos de Ávila. Just outside the town the city of Ávila is spotted. Still needs just under 2 hours to get there and into the walled city.

Camino Levante - Day 22 Leaving San Bartolomé de Pinares

Cows everywhere. Quite a number of horses too. The next town El Herradón appears quite empty so had to forgo my next cup of coffee.

Another steep climb today, probably the last for Camino Levante unless one continues to Santiago after Zamora. Looking back can see it is higher than yesterday.

The highest point. Not! There are still more climbing. I reckon the highest point to be around 1400 meters. The top as usual is bare, only the yellow arrow. From now it's a descent towards Ávila .

Camino Levante - Day 21 San Bartolomé de Pinares

Arrived after 4 pm totally drained. Very small town. Found a bar and after a cold drink and coffee was deciding what to do next. Hassle to ask for albergue (there seems to be one here) to just pay and check into the only hostal in town. Decided on the latter as I just don't have the strength anymore. Good thing to since the hostal is also the only restaurant in this agricultural town.

A bit of my sole drom the shoe is coming off after the rough terrain today and I couldn't find any provision or bazaar in this town. Thank goodness the hostal have super glue. Blessing.

Only wifi is not working and the old man in the hostal doesn't know much to help. At least I got a local SIM card to post today's journal.

The hostal is so nice and says they can serve me dinner at 7 pm. Yay!

Dinner time. Tomorrow will be a climb to the highest elevation in the Camino Levante 1300 plus meters? At least the distance to Ávila is a much shorter 24 km.

View from my room at the hostal, don't mind the laundry.

Camino Levante - Day 21 To San Bartolomé de Pimares

There are still over 10 km of traversing bald mountain tops before the descent to San Bartolomé de Pinares. That's the worst when there are no shade in the hot afternoon sun. And cows, more cows.

Finally San Bartolomé de Pinares on sight below. Shoot. That means another big climb tomorrow.

Camino Levante - Day 21 Leaving Creberos

After another cafe con leche, it is steepest climb in the Camino Levante, almost 400 meters in 2.6 km. That took a lot out of me. Getting up really high now. At the vista looking back I had my lunch under a tree enjoying the view. There is another over 150 meters more incline to go but not as steep. Today's top elevation is just over 1200 meters. And there are no trees up there.

Lunch is something I packed last night. A lemon drink, 2 three layer sandwich (ham and cheese) with a mayo spread (yes, been carrying a mayo squeeze bottle all the while), a tomato (no knife to cut it since I didn't check in my backpack on the flight here, bag of chips and some peach. No jamon or chorizo as they are too dry for me.