Camino del Madrid - Day 5 - Coca

An easy day 24-25 km. Sicilian's name is Alesandro. The bar only opens at 7:30 am but since it's a short day we can wait. It's almost 8 am before it opened. Besides coffee only cold plastic food. Good thing I already had breakfast at the albergue (some leftover sandwich, banana and yogurt). Late start at 8:30 am. For today's route only one place to stop just after mid point so it's important to as least load up a bit before starting.

Pass an old bull ring to get out of town. Saw the tappers working on the pine trees, similar to rubber tapping except here it is done with a v-shape cut. The only challenge is majority of the trail today is along the pine trees and the path is very sandy, almost like walking on the beach and it gets inside the shoe easily. There are really no way around it as the sides are just as bad littered with stringy pine leaves, too soft and bouncy. Strangely it doesn't seems to affect me as much as the others. 

Perfect refuelling point at Nava de la Asunción with tortilla, pulpo and sandwiches and we are off. There is a choice of routes after the town. Maura (Moira, spelt her name wrong) and Sandro (Alesandro) took the route and the right while Ivan and I took the left route. The right is slightly longer which I suspect may have less pine trail but later they said it is just as bad. In any case Ivan and I arrived at the albergue 10 minutes earlier. Just before Coca a beautiful scene of a granpa and granddaughter playing with the horses. Called the hospitalero to get into the albergue which used to be the house of a school teacher in 1931, that and lots and lots of other information from the chatty old lady hospitalero. Only one bathroom/toilet downstairs (a bit of a hassle) and four rooms of 2-6 beds each upstairs. Maura took the ladies room, Sandro and me one and Ivan by himself in another room, that is until the cyclists came. First one cyclist who took the last room then 3 more at 7:30 pm in Ivan's room. They came from Cercedilla today and it is hard to imagine how they manage the gravel climb up the mountain before Segovia. Told Ivan he should move to our room and take one of the top bunk (the elders should have the bottom beds, hehe). Reason is the cyclist have a different schedule from the walkers so he would be disturbed when they come back late from dinner vice versa when he leaves early tomorrow.

Washing all done and it's time to see the town. Coca is a nice town with a shady terrace outside the town wall. The bar serve food whole day and besides the calamares we each had platos a great time just chatting away. Luckily the supermarket was open as we need to stock up on food for tomorrow (Sunday).

Sandwiches all prepared and ready for the walk tomorrow....

Camino del Madrid - Day 4 - Santa María La Real de Nieva

Woke up and had tea and stuff bought the day earlier. Prepared tuna and egg sandwich the night before for lunch thanks to the kitchen there. One more good look at the aqueduct after coming out of the hostal at 7:30 am. 4 degrees and cold but felt okay after walking a while. Passed the  Alcazar castle (one of the two that inspired the Disney castle, the other being in Neuschwangstein, Germany). A couple of photos leaving Segovia with the mountain backdrop and on to Zamarramala just 2-3 km away. Don't know why but many in the forum says it is a must stay place. Nothing much there at all, not even a bar (but it could be behind somewhere and I didn't bother to look). Later I found from the Italian pilgrim that the albergue  in Zamarramala is run by the Friends of the Camino and of course an excellent hospitelero there. Having to bus back to Segovia to enjoy the city from there is not for me, not even with all the raves.

Walked with Moira to Los Huertos and had my first cup of coffee and another round of food. Moira was excited they had black pudding just like back home in Ireland.

The terrain now is relatively flat all the way to Sahagun. If one had to choose only one photo to symbolize the Camino this would be it. There is a memorial for Peter Callow under the arrow. This is the first pilgrim memorial I've seen other than in Camino Frances. Not sure if he passed away on that spot. The pine forest is a welcome shade. They are tapping the sap which reminds me of Arévalo on the Camino Levante. Then I realized then that Arévalo on the Camino Levante is less than 30 km west from here. Imagine that.

20 km later in Añe there is an albergue. No bar, no food. Remember the not very approachable Spaniard from Cercedila? Turns out he is French from Toulouse. He is staying there for multiple reasons, one of them being he fast on Friday and that's today,  so food is not an issue with him.

We caught up with the Sicilian and the three of us basically do something like a cycling peloton all the way to Sta.Maria la Real de Nieva (boy it's a long name). Time of arrival 4 pm, a total of 31-32 km. The Sicilian made a phone call to the hospitelero to get the key to the albergue. Six beds (3 bunk beds) so each of us had the bottom beds. So finally on day four I have the chance to use my sleeping bag. At almost 6.30 pm Ivan finally turn up. He said he got lost and had to walk an extra seven km! He was half dead. He chose the bed above me. It sag so much I hope it does not come crashing down or my Camino will be over sooner than I plan. Still he manages to go out looking for food very quickly after his shower. Only one restaurant here but was closed when we got there at 7:45 pm so we just have some tapas at the bar instead. I still have some boiled eggs from yesterday, chips and yogurt from the small supermarket here. It will have to do. In any case tomorrow's mileage will be in the twenties so I should have more time to do the washing, resting and of course better food.

Just remembered I didn't have a picture of Ivan so I quickly snap one just before his shower. The albergue here is donativo 5 euros. Interesting combination!?! A good way to empty my coins that has been accumulating the last few days.

The Sicilian just came back and said he had his dinner at the restaurant. He said it opened only after 8:15 pm. Oh well...

More to come.....

Camino del Madrid - Day 3 - Segovia

Brrrr. 1 degree in the morning. The temperature last two days has been 4-21 degrees. Today is 1-19 degrees. The temperature also won't hit double digit unit past 1 pm.

7 am and it's still.dark. This time of the year only at 7:30 am will there be enough light to walk. With not a soul around I thought I might just use the map app and walk still in the dark to the train station which is along the way... somewhat. Maybe the cafe at the train station is open. Good guess. Having the morning coffee is already half the battle won. I had breakfast in the room before I left (ham and cheese sandwiches, banana, peach and half a bottle of drinkable yogurt. No need for any sweet stuff wrapped in plastic at the station.

The initial 4 km was nice along the carreterra (paved road). A sign says 1200 meters altitude. Already? At 1600 meters that means today's climb would not be more than 400 meters. Yay! With about 100 meters up on the paved road and only 300 unpaved. When the pave road ends it was the Calzada Romana (Roman road). It may be smoother 2000 years ago but this one is not only rough but as you climb it gets smaller and more dangerous for your feet as the shoes will cause the stones to slide. Estimated 2 km of steep rocky climb are one rocks. Urghh. Half way through David appeared from behind. He's from Bilbao, in Madrid for work, had a free day so he drove up here just to hike around. These Basque people, they really like to hike. I remembered on my Camino del Norte in the initial stages in Basque country there are way more local hikers than pilgrims. Anyway, he works in the travel industry and had even led tourgrims on the Camino for those who do not like to walk all the way and carry their own backpacks. Other interesting stories include San Toribo detour, etc. He gave me his email and I hope to pick on some other facts on the Camino and walking in Spain in general. At least he made my steep climb easier just from the conversation with each other.

When the path opened up to a clearing (without rocks) I thought hmm, this could it the higest point. It is! Even then there is another 24 more km Segovia, sigh. At the clearing, I met my first two pilgrims (beside Son). Moira from Ireland and I forgot his name from Italy (Sicily). Then two more Spaniards arrived at the clearing. One of them I believed I saw the day before also staying at the Hostal El Maya. I could tell by his dressing and brand that he is from Spain. A pilgrim is always aware and never miss anything, hehe. In fact, yesterday evening at the bar in the hostal he nursing a beer watching the game on tv while I was hiding behind my cup of coffee wondering if I should just ask him. He doesn't seems approachable so in the end I didn't. Neither was he today. The other Ivan from Barcelona was more chatty. Later we walked together for just 30 mins and I think I already know half his live story. The path now goes down gradually but before a small stetch of snow. Lots of fountain streams I lost count. Even a bunch of army soldiers hiking through as part of their training. It was a nice walk through a pine tree forest for many km until the clearing when Segovia can be seen on the left, unfortunately still 3 hours away. Looking back from the clearing to mountain we descended it really looks like Julie Andrews scene from the Sound of Music. Ivan, on his first Camino wanted to take a break so I carried on and caught up with Moira. Together we walk 2/3 of Segovia suburbs to get to the aqueduct of Segovia. Don't when the time of arrival was as we stop at a cafe for some pastry and coffee, but I would say around 4 pm. Today's 32km up and down the mountain was easier than expected. Still the legs are like rubber now and I sorely needed to rest. Not before going back to see the aqueduct again, buy fruits at the supermarket, find food....

We are now in the dry country where even the landscape looks thirsty. From now, the terrain will basically be dry and flat all the way to Sahagun.

The albergue is 3 km outside Segovia in Zamarramala. Definitely staying in Segovia but being a tourist location even a hostal can be expensive. I preempted that by downloading the booking.com app yesterday on the mobile and found the cheapest hostel at 18.50 euro. It's actually more like a private albergue with bedsheets. Best of all just 200 meters from the aqueduct. Moira and I got a room with no one in the upper bunk. Ivan came in later and got a room with other budget tourist on the upper floor. The others pilgrims I guess has decided to walk 3 km ahead to the albergue in Zamarramala.

This Camino suddenly feels crowded for me, in a good way. from zero or one (Son) to four more. Would like to write more but really tired now and I need to sleep.

Camino del Madrid - Day 2 - Cercedilla

Long day. Started 7:30 am (breakfast at 7am include). Not much, just some banana/orange, coffee/milk and plastic food (what I call those Magdalena and sweet stuff wrapped in plastic that is so common in Spain). Nice mural of Camino Santiago while leaving Colmenar Viejo. Was a very pleasant walk to Manzanares el Real. Royal Apples? (Apple festival coming next month a castle here). A big embalse (lake) in front and crossed a bridge to get into town. There is something wrong with the distance in one of the guides. It's not 22km like I mentioned yesterday but more like 11km as I only took 3 hours of walking to get here. Followed the arrow and suddenly I am out of the town without even going to the center. Translate: No bar or second coffee of the day here for me!

At this time I am already quite ahead of Mr. Son. The next 7-8 km to Mataelpino was just as nice. Still skirting along the mountain on the right. Cute school kids out hiking with their teachers, streams and bridges. Matealpino is still too short for me (just under 20 km) so another 7-8 km I found myself in Navacerrada. This stretch is not so pleasant with rocky and rough stony path and a bit more up and down than earlier. 

When I got to Navacerrada at 2pm (just in time for lunch again) I found I was really tired and not much appetite. The bar was serving some Fabada (beans and sausage) to two Spaniard regulars so I figured this would be perfect and not too big a meal. Checked with Mr. Son on whatsapp there and found that he was really slow and estimated he would only be in Mataelpino at 3 pm! It's like saying he is 7 km behind after starting together in the morning. Guess he will be staying at the Albergue in Mataelpino today.

Feeling kind of exhausted I thought I might just find a hostal and stay here in Navacerrada instead of another 4 km to Cercedilla completely forgetting that after Cercedilla it is the big climb up/down the mountain and no pueblo for 32 km until Segovia. Staying in Navacerrada will add only 4 km to that making it 36 km tomorrow with big climb! The hostals in town is already full (festival?) and one of the customer in the bar offered to drive me just out of town to another hostal that is also in the guide. As he left me it dawned upon me that if the hostal is full I have to walk another km back to town. As my luck it was full. Arghhh.. Walked back to town thinking that's it, I rather just walk another 4 km hour to Cercedilla despite being very exhausted, especially that's when I realized my mistake of trying to stay here. One of the guys in the bar saw me again and said there is another hostal (not in the guide) 500 meters beyond that hostal that out of town (1.5km?). This time no free transport. No thank you..

Leaving Navacerrada already exhausted it was a steep climb for a few hundred meters. I felt like an old horse wanting to be shot. Then it became a gradual descend all the way to Cercedilla. Phew!

Arriving in Cercerdilla at 4:30 pm (33 km day but feeling like 35 km with extra walking) exhausted with a big climb tomorrow I didn't bother looking for the Albergue which is in the polideportivo (sports hall). At the center, I saw a Alimentacion (provision shop), went in and true enough it was a Chinese lady at the counter. Many of the bazar (general store) and provision shops are run by Chinese from China. Just hope they don't become a problem here as they keep long opening hours. I immediately asked her which of the two hostal here are the closest and she mention hostal El Maya 50 meters ahead, looking at me strangely. Imagine me just barging in and straight away asked her about hostal in mandarin. I just want a room, pronto!

Expect to pay more from yesterday's experience as many madrileños drive up north to enjoy staying in spa hotels and hostals. 30 euros? Ok. Not too bad. Hugh bathroom, queen size bed. All smiles. I am not a good pilgrim...

Some washing and personal maintenance later got out to look for a supermarket. Saw a lady smoking outside and instead of asking her where is the supermarket my mouth defies me and I asked her if there a supermarket here instead. Yes, there are three supermarket here she said with pride. Just direct me to the nearest one thanks...

A quick dinner, writing this now, rest my walking muscles and soon will visit the zzzzz monster.

Last thing. I message Mr. Son that he can only walk 13km to Cercedilla from Mataelpino tomorrow and no further. He uses the same map app on his mobile as me and I send him my Madrid Camino overlay to him this morning so he shouldnt be lost even when the arrows fails him. He is already a day behind me just like that. I wish him well and hope he will make it.

Camino del Madrid - Day 1 - Colmenar Viejo

After breakfast I got on the metro and started walking from the suburbs of Fuencarral. Estimated that I cut down journey to Colmenar Viejo to around 30 km, which is okay for my first day. Happy to see my first yellow arrow when I join the route. A bit of suburb walking then open fields after crossing two ring highway of the city.

Saw my first and only pilgrim today. Son from South Korea. Brave young man, his first day on his first Camino. As usual he carried too much and now in the evening body arching and blisters on the feet. He says he stayed in a Korean albergue in the north of Madrid (imagine that) run by a Korean couple who is working in Spain. Says he is stopping early in Tres Canto. I told him Colmenar Viejo for me and he followed me here since when we got to Tres Canto it was only 11 am. He brought no provisions so I shared some of my fruits and biscuit with him during a break. I suddenly become a mentor to him. Imagine that too. Things such as basic names of food, local norms, etc. I stop from time to time so he can catch up. There are no albergue on the first stage (Tres Canto or Colmenar Viejo) and the hostal in Colmenar Viejo is pretty expensive at 45 euros. So I guess my reason for sticking with him is that we might be able to share a room together and save some money. Yes, I admit I have an ulterior motive to stop and wait for him. Not sure if I can keep this up further down the road or if he can keep up with me. He is still young (fresh graduated) but not the best fitness and on his first Camino. In any case it paid off. The double room at the hostel is 48 euros so it's only 24 each. 🤗

We got into Colmenar Viejo at 2 pm, just in time for lunch. After lunch as I was to asking around for the way to the hostal, a guy came up and told me there is a new albergue in a colegio (school). It is not unusual for some of the less walked Camino using a school as a makeshift albergue. Just follow the arrow and you will see it he says. We did and when I saw something that looks like a school I told Son (who is just so tired and barely following me) that if that guy is wrong I am going to look like an idiot asking the school if there is lodging for pilgrim. True enough, not! Arghhh!!! As least I got directions to the hostal from one of the school's staff. Son was clearly very tired and sad we spend nearly an hour finding the school and then to the hostal. I told him when he join the Camino Frances in Sahagun things will be much much easier. I guess he realized by now that we need to ask for directions, sometimes even call for albergues/hostals on these tier 3 Caminos (for tier 1 - Frances and tier 2 like via de la Plata/Norte/Primitivo one does not have to worry about it).

Son is also worried about the big climb the day before Segovia, especially after his tough initiation on his first day today. The snow capped mountains behind Colmenar Viejo increased his fear. I told him the mountain pass wouldn't be that high and definitely wouldn't go over the snow line, only 1600 meters on the map. He then said 'Santiago is here!', implying himself. Funny guy. I said no, Santiago is over 630 km away.

Anyway, we shall see if tomorrow he would follow me 33 km to Cercedilla or stop after 22 km in Mataelpino. Normally 22 km is okay for me. But there is nothing after that for another 32 km to Segovia from Cercedilla, so it means only 11 km following day if one made a stop in Mataelpino. That's too short a day. I know there is detour to a small town with a hostal mid point to Segovia but I don't want to either stay in another hostal again so soon and/or a short day. Ah, such is the joy and pain of navigating these tier 3 Caminos.

Till tomorrow.....

Camino del Madrid - Day 1 - Breakfast

Cuántos? Tres! These thick churros porra is closer to our 油条. I actually entered the different cafe. Imagine two (churroteria?) next to each other. Three! Such a pig. Figured I had eaten two days worth during the last 24 hours. Now to the metro to Fuencarral to start walking. I think I will risk being knocked down if I have to walk the few km from the center. Plus the morning crowd is growing...

Camino del Madrid - Day 0 - Credencial

Went back to the parish church of St. James and John the Baptist at 6pm and at church's back office got my credencial! It's official now and no need for me to reuse my old credencial from last year. One guy before me and two ladies here after me. Not sure when they will be walking but it's looking not as empty as the Camino Levante. Or just maybe they are doing the other Camino Ucles. I will find out the next few days just how quiet this Camino will be.

Interesting church. The usual St James as a pilgrim statue but also a painting of Santiago Matamooros (St James slaying of the Moors).

Body can't eat much now even though the mind wants to. Probably a lighter platos and just try to stay up until 10 pm before sleeping to reset the body clock.

Camino del Madrid - Day 0 - Madrid

Here I am finally. Checked into a hostal and before I am rested, already out. So nice to walk around the center of Madrid. The buildings, the people walking around and so many things to eat. Thought I would try out the famous calamares sandwich cerveceria this time. 3.5 euro. Really good, especially when you wash it down with a small glass of beer. Tapas, Jamon and more. Already eyeing on some of the menu del dia for din din and hope I can still eat. Hedonistic when it comes to eating now as I will work it off when I start walking tomorrow. What a way to get spoilt. Most of days walking to smaller towns I will consider it lucky to get even 10 percent of what's available here.

Besides that some prep work to do.

SIM card with 2 GB data and some voice credit. Checked.

Some provisions from Dia before the walk tomorrow. Checked.

Credencial. Umm.. I brought my last year credential with still lots of space for stamping. I figured since I won't be walking to Santiago it wouldn't really matter, plus they don't really check your credencial on these lesser trodden routes.

Still it would be nice to get an official one. The office of the friends of the Camino are closed on Monday. Another way someone suggested to try in the forum would be to go to the Church of Santiago and San Juan de Bautista here in Madrid. What? Have to share it with John the Baptist?

So I went down there (very close by) and of course it was closed in the afternoon. Sign near the door says daily mass at 6 pm. Maybe I can sneak in later and see if I can get a credencial from the priest. If not then last year's credentials would have to do. There are two Camino shell outside the church. Camino Ucles (some place south east of Madrid) and Camino Santiago. For show only as I follow the blue Santiago one and cannot find any more shells or waymarker.

Will I start from there tomorrow? Probably not. This is too big a city to walk out of. Thinking of taking the metro a few km north to Fuencarral nearer the edge of the city and start from there. For a 34km first day, a few clicks less is welcome. I will decide in the morning...

Camino del Madrid - All packed!

6 kg dry weight. I supposed no more than 8k walking weight with 1.5 liter water and provisions.

Light enough I don't need to check it in and don't require a walking pole or boots (light hiking shoes).

Camino del Madrid - Next week

Time for another Camino (see red arrow). Expect Camino del Madrid to be extremely quiet until Sahagun before one sees the hordes of pilgrims walking the Camino Frances (where I will be stopping). This is another Camino where I won't be arriving in Santiago de Compostela (like walking a branch of the route).

Probably my last Camino for a while (famous last words...). Running out of Caminos in Spain to walk, or at least until walking infrastructure improves from Lisbon (Camino Portuguese) or those Caminos in the Catalan area.

Sadly, my fellow walking companion Michael couldn't make it this time due to a last minute health issue so this is going to be a solo walk.

It shouldn't take more than 13 days to walk the Camino del Madrid. So unless Michael can at least make it to his second home in the South of Spain (still uncertain at this moment) when I can relax and cycle around the south with one of his bikes, I would need a Plan B for the last 2 weeks out of my 4 weeks in Spain. So far I haven't really been looking at other alternatives in details. A potential may be walking the Camino Mozarabe from Granada to Cordoba (I had already bike the second half of Camino Mozarabe from Cordoba to Merida last year). We shall see if I need to activate Plan B.